For nine years, I fought with the Renegade's original topping lift, that removed battens and ripped open tabling in the main sail. So I was pleased when an article in Practical Sailor about the Garhauer Rigid Vang gave me new hope.

After measuring the available vertical space and talking with Garhauer I had some trepidation that the lack of vertical space would not allow the unit to perform satisfactorily. I decided that the positives out weighted the negatives and a real bargain at under $250.00, including shipping.

About four weeks after placing the order the truly beautifully made vang arrived. Eyes in lines are not only spliced but also whipped, all highly finished blocks are stamped with a guaranty to 2007, the stainless steel body is polished to a high luster and the welds put anything I can do shame.

If Garhauer is not familiar with a particular boat they require an outline of the lower half of the boom and the aft cross section of the mast. Unfortunately, when I supplied the mast outline I depicted the slide grove as a dotted line and Garhauer interpreted this as a solid surface suitable for mounting the mast end "T" track section. If my diagram had not mislead they would have supplied a slide arrangement that fit the mast groove. To resolve my problem I machined a pair of "T" shaped aluminum slides to fit in the mast slide slot to which I have secured the lower vang mounting track.

The upper end of the vang is attached to the lower side of the boom by another short section of "T" track. To locate the correct position I used hose clamps to hold the track in place, while I moved the track section fore and aft until the right balance point between boom weight boon height was identified.

Fix the boom at the lowest position you want it to fall to when the sail is just fully hoisted, without being under tension, as it would be in light air. Lock the vang in a fully compressed state. With the lower end of the vang attached to the mast securely, clamp the upper track to the boom with the hose clamps. Release the boom and the vang and check the travel. There should be good adjusting range without the boom falling too far. If the desired movement is not achieved reposition the track on the boom and try it again.

When the correct position is found re-secure the boom and the re-lock the vang. Be careful as the vang is probably under serious compression. Mark the screw mounting holes on the boom then remove the clamps. Drill and tap the holes for ¼ x 24NF threaded screws taking care not to drill into the outhaul lines in the boom. Treat the screws with Loctite and re-attach the "T" track this time using ¼ x 24NF counter sunk stainless steel screws.

I used ¼ x 24NF threaded screws to increase the material in the thread holes though ¼ x 20NC screws will work. However, the courser threads have less material in thin cross section materials such as a boom.

So as not to put a set in the vang springs I do not store the boom with the vang compressed. I have attached a short line, with a "S" hook at one end, to the backstay that lifts the boom approximately six inches when I attach it to one of the tines on the end of the boom. I have been able to completely removed the old topping lift.

I have found the sail shape control supplied by the vang well worth while. In light air the vang allows forcing up the boom to improve the fullness, needed to develop drive, while in heavy air the sail can be flattened. Both shapes can be achieved without compromising the sheet controlled position of the boom.