REPLACING MAST STEP

_{Mast shoe corroded into the mast.     Rotting mast step on deck.}

MAST STEP & MAST WIRING

When it came time to unstep the mast, it would not budge... in fact the crane lifted ATHENE 2 feet out of the water by the mast. Drilling out the screws at the base of the mast did nothing. It was only after banging around the shoe, with the crane pulling on the mast, that the shoe finally let go... from the DECK!

Getting the shoe out of the mast was another matter. After 30 years of water, the cast aluminum shoe was "welded" to the extruded aluminum of the mast. Only after an afternoon with a hacksaw and a hammer, was I able to get it out... Of course, an aluminum eye strap screwed into the mast for the vang was also screwed into the shoe and when the shoe came out, there was a small two inch crack at the base where the eye strap had held. I had the crack welded and a stainless pad eye installed with a welded in backing plate for the vang. Getting the mast to the welder is another story for another time

The plywood step under the mast was starting to rot and fall apart. This material was actually teak or mahogany plywood very suitable for 30 years of service. The step was 8 inches in diameter and 1.25 inches thick.... not easily duplicated in oakum or mahogany/teak plywood without using varying thicknesses of very expensive, hard to find, material. I also did not want to use a simple block of wood as I was afraid the wood might split under the compression whereas plywood could handle this better. I could have also used a piece of black delrin but this was REALLY expensive. For the next 30 years of service, I chose fiberglass—which I hope is more durable, and was certainly less expensive.

Actually, a friend* suggested I "bake" the step. Into an 8 inch diameter circular Rubbermaid container, I poured West System with varying amounts of 404 high density adhesive filler, and alternated many wet layers of fiberglass mat and fiberglass cloth. In the middle, sits a ¾ in. piece of oak plywood. I built up the concoction to 1.25 inches and let it sit in a level place. One hour later, I popped it out of the mold.

After cutting the holes to receive the wiring harness and lugs from the shoe, I mounted it on the deck using through bolts the held down the original. Once it was painted to protect the epoxy from UV, I bedded with 4200. I also replaced the stainless wiring harness with a wider piece of PVC tubing. I also had to widen the hole in the deck to receive the thicker gauge wiring I used. I used 3M 101 to bed the harness. The shoe was bedded with 4200...and the 1/4 screws are set in with Tuff Gel... just in case it all has to come out again!

* Pat Tilson, former Coaster owner and master of destruct... er reconstruction, whom some of you may know, was the friend who suggested this arrangement. Of course he will also get the credit with much bigger print if it ever fails!