Replacing Aft Toe Rail with Genoa Track

Shadowfax Too was fitted with two 12 foot Jib Car Tracks at some point in it’s life. The through hull screw holes, which secured the stainless steel strip atop the teak toe rail, were a constant source of leakage. No amount of tightening solved the problem. The lack of scuppers, that allowed pooling behind the toe rail, simply added to the problem.

In 1998/9 lay-up I decided to install an adjustable jib car system and to redesign the toe rail with scuppers.

When I cut the toe rail to fit the new track and mounting system the cause of the leakage became apparent. In the bottom right corner of the "genoatrack.jpg" page is a cross section image that depicts the original toe rail, car track, spacer, anti-skid deck and hull. The track securing screws go through the center (not shown) of the image and, as can be seen, when the goop sealant dries, no amount of compression on the assembly will reseal around the screw through-holes. In fact the space under the toe rail acted as a channel for water that pooled behind the rail.

My redesigned rail and track removed a 10 feet plus section of the old toe rail to allow placement of the new assemblies. The wood toe rail is secured with screws so take some care when removing it so as not to damage the hull. Additionally four short sections will be needed to fill the gaps between the old rail and the ends of the new rail.

My new design elevated the Schaffer 1¼" T Track on 6" x ½" x ¾" aluminum blocks. This creates a 2" x ½" scupper every 6" amidships and obviates all water pooling. This aluminum section is shown in plain view in the top center of "genoatrack.jpg". The top right most image is the plan view end cross section of the aluminum blocks.

The top left image: I made two longer (8") end sections to mount End Stops and Anchors.

To address the thickness of the ¼" anti-skid surface, spacers cut from bar stock (6" x ¼" x ¼") are required on the outside under the mounting blocks, as shown in the bottom left image of the new assembly. I had the bar stock cut by the supply house I purchased the materials from. This resolved transporting 12-foot lengths of aluminum and the arduous task of accurately cutting the material.

When I drilled the blocks I countersunk the under side hoping that sealant would be compressed into the wedge shaped space. This is not necessary because the area around the holes does not sit flush against the hull due to the anti-skid deck.

The center image is the side view of the track and mounting blocks for a 10-foot track.

I placed the aft end of the track just aft of the winch pod. If I was to do the project again I would align the aft end of the track with the aft end of the cockpit coaming or even further aft for spinnaker guys.

To bend the track I first anchored the aft end and progressively worked my way forward using a padded "C" to pull and hold in the track. I used a Sears pistol grip one-hand clamp so the other hand was free to place screws. Do not push the track and blocks all the way down to the deck at first as bedding compound is put in three to four blocks behind where the "at hand" block is being installed.

To single-handed this project, use 6 or 8 - 6" long-nose locking Vice Grip pliers. Place them on the nuts to stop them turning when the screws are tightened from the topside. Each side is a good days work for one person once all the materials are at hand.